If you are working in mold-making, prototyping or even in a job shop you have had to use unusual form tooling before in your life.

Form tooling is often used to machine undercuts and other features on regular 3 axis machines that would otherwise require a multi axis machining centre or are not machinable o at all.

The classical example of a form tool is a tear-drop ball mil, also known as a "lollipop". It has a tip with a certain diameter and a much smaller shank that produces enough clearance to machine undercuts on straight walls. It can also be used to regular surface finishing and 2d milling.

Another example is a T-slot cutter that is used to produce key-ways and t- slots

The main thing to consider when machining with reduced shank end mils is deflection and torque.

While deflection is especially dangerous for long tools, torque becomes much more important for tools with severely reduced shank.

Torque required to break a tool is directly proportional to the diameter of its shank.

And when shank diameter is much smaller than the tip diameter it does not matter how short that weak portion is: unless you compensate for it you will snap the tool.

The first thing that crosses the mind in many such cases is "I gotta run this tool very slow". It may take forever, but in many cases job gets somewhat done.

Contrary to that many experienced machinists have been proponents of different approach. Instead of reducing feed rate to the point of rubbing and below, it is much more productive to reduce cutter engagement if possible and leave feed rate settings largely unchanged.

Trying to keep proper chip load is even more important when machining work-hardenable materials like stainless steel and titanium. In those cases rubbing is not just unproductive, it leads to a very premature, in many cases instantaneous tool failure.

Just how much of a cut is possible to take in each particular case is the black magic that separates beginners from seasoned pros.

Not to worry though

Here is an example Read More 

HSMAdvisor v0.1 is now available.

(newest version is 0.101)

A decision has been made that updates containing new features will increment by 0.1 each time

Bug fix updates and improvement updates will increment by 0.01

This should be a hint that first fully commercial release is in sight. (you still have another 6 months or so of free updates).

There is only one major feature

• Machinery with gear boxes is now supported- users can enter a list of RPM machine can have set and FSWizard will force all calculations to stick to those pre-defined numbers.
  There is a sample machine called "Manual Lathe" that demonstrates this feature. You can use "Import" function in Machine Definitions dialog to load that machine and see how it works

Several bugs have been fixed

• Manually entered RPM for lathe tools have been fixed
• Minimum RPM entered in Machine Definitions dialog now actually forces FSWizard to not go below that value and generate a warning.

How Sticky RPM works:

• Create new machine in Machine Definitions by clicking Add button and giving it a name you would recoginze.
• Fill up all of the input boxes including Min and Max RPM, Horse Power and Torque.
• Enter list of RPM values your machine supports into the Power Curve table.
  (Note RPM values HAVE to be in incremental order)
• Against each RPM row enter the max Horesepower your machine has (because its a gear-box, machine HP value is constant at any spindle speed)
  Tip: if Max torque was unknown, now you can enter the highest value you see in Torque row.
• Check Calculations Stick to pre-defined RPM only check box (Yes i know the picture shows that box unchecked, but you have to CHECK it)
• Check Use Horse Power Curve Compensation check box

Thats it!

Now FSWizard will force calculated RPM to match the closest RPM value from the table.

Sticky RPM

Anybody could use a pair (or more) of push clamps around their shop.

Those handy devices convert your machine' table into a huge vise.
They are pretty mush irreplaceable when machining plates and other oversized parts that no ordinary vise will fit.

Several vendors offer their clamps. But many of them tend to be pricey. And those that are not, lack in quality.

And to be honest with you, it does not look like they are worth the amount of money their seller is trying to get from you.

In the mean time their design is simple enough to fabricate in any shop.

Here is a picture of two of four clamps i made for myself on manual mill withing 2 hours- sure beats buying mitee-bitees for 175$ a pop!!!

Made out of 5/8" thick D2 plate

1" long Shoulder in the front is tapped to 3/8-16 NC.

Slot for 1/2-13 bolt is sloped towards the back to prevent clamp from sliding under clamping pressure.

A thick 1/4" washer is used to protect T-slot from damage by the socket head.

I ll try to get more pictures tomorrow.

IMAG0540.jpg Drawing

Here is a list of Okuma G and M codes i got from the manual

Note Some codes may not be supported by your machine, all information is given as is and i dont give a ... if you break something.

Information given here is correct to the best of my knowlege

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